The cosmetic use of plant material runs through all ancient cultures. The Egyptians incorporated beauty preparations in their religious and ceremonial rituals while the ancient Greeks developed a philosophy of all-round health and beauty akin to modern concepts. The Romans indulged further in aromatic rituals and body pampering. Citro, a Roman writer in the first century AD, produced four books on cosmetics with a comprehensive range of recipes for hair care, avoiding wrinkles and dealing with body odours.
By the time of the renaissance, there was an awareness of skin care as separate from medicinal disorders. Recipes for soaps, creams and herbal waters were collected and recorded in herbals which were handed down from mother to daughter for generations.
During the nineteenth century, cosmetics became an organized industry in America. In 1846 Mr Theron T Pond offered his "Pond's Extract" to the public and other manufacturers soon followed. The innovative use of preservatives and mass production created an unprecedented choice.
Today's commercial products are often expensive, having vast amounts of money spent on advertising, packaging, distribution and testing (which can involve cruelty to animals). Allergies have increased along with the use of chemical preservatives, synthetic perfumes and artificial colourings. As a result, demand has risen for natural ingredients, and since research has demonstrated the remarkable therapeutic prosperities of herbs, many firms are rushing to create their own ranges of herbal cosmetics.
By making your own cosmetics, you can be sure of their contents. You select each ingredient and have control over its freshness and purity. Our recipes combine present-day knowledge with traditional ingredients and methods inherited from past ages, including the first face cream recipe recorded by Galen, a Roman doctor in the second century. This recipe used a formula of oil, water and wax and has formed the basis of day creams ever since. Some preparations take no longer than boiling a kettle, others require heating and blending but are no more complicated or time-consuming than preparing a simple sauce.
NB: Before using any herbal preparations, you are advised to sample a small amount first, particularly if you have had allergic reactions in the past.
BASIC HERBAL PREPARATIONS
Most of the recipes use one of these methods to extract
the therapeutic properties from herbs.
| Infusing | Put one and a half handfuls of fresh herbs into a heatproof container. Bring 1 pint (570 ml) distilled water to the boil. Pour over the herb immediately and cover. Steep for 30 minutes. Strain and store in a refrigerator for up to three days. |
| Decocting | This method is usually employed for the tougher parts of herbs. Put 1 oz (25 g) of the herb into a saucepan (not aluminium or copper). Add 1 pint (570 ml) distilled water, bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes. If more than half the liquid has evaporated, top up with water to make half a pint (275 ml). Cool, strain and bottle. Keep in the refrigerator and use within a few days. |
| Macerating | Use this method for herbs likely to lose some of their therapeutic value if heated. Pack a glass jar with the crushed, fresh herb. Cover with vegetable oil, cider vinegar or pure alcohol. Seal and leave for 2 weeks, shaking the jar each day. Strain and top up with fresh herbs. Repeat until the liquid smells strongly herbal. Strain, seal and bottle. Keeps well and retains its scent. |
| Pulverizing | Grind, bruise or mash plant fibres and seeds using either a pestle and mortar or an electric blender |
NON-HERBAL INGREDIENTS
| Agar Agar | Derived from seaweed. Used to make gels. |
| Alcohol | A colourless, flavourless preservative and solvent. The best alcohol for perfumery and least irritating to skin is ethyl alcohol. |
| Beeswax | Acts as an emulsifier for oil and water in creams. |
| Benzoin | A preservative, astringent and antiseptic. |
| Borax | A white, crystalline mineral powder used as an emulsifier. |
| Bran | Used in face masks, soaps and body scrubs as a cleanser. |
| Buttermilk | Available from health-food shops. Soothing and astringent. |
| Calamine Lotion | A soothing alkaline lotion for skin problems. |
| Castile Soap | A pure soap with no added colour or perfume. |
| Cocoa Butter | A thick fat from the cocoa bean, which makes a rich emollient in creams. |
| Distilled Water | Only pure water is suitable for making cosmetics. |
| Emulsifying Wax | A wax used to emulsify oil and water in creams. |
| Fuller's Earth | A fine grey powder derived from single-cell algae found on sea beds. Its absorbent properties and mineral richness make it an excellent face mask. |
| Gelatine | A colourless, odourless, tasteless glue and a rich source of water-soluble protein, obtained by boiling animal bones. Used in eye ointments and nail hardening lotions. Agar agar is a vegetable substitute. |
| Glycerine | A thick, colourless, odourless syrup and by-product of soap manufacture. It mixes with water, is soluble in alcohol and has softening properties. |
| Honey | Softening, healing and binds other ingredients together. |
| Iodine | Used as an antiseptic |
| Kaolin | The purest form of clay, useful in face masks. |
| Lanolin | A thick, sticky fat obtained from sheep's wool. Softens and nourishes the skin. |
| Liquid Paraffin | A mineral oil, which is not absorbed by the skin, making it useful in barrier creams. |
| Oatmeal | See Bran. |
| Oils | Almond, avocado, wheatgerm, carrot, coconut and nut kernel oils are particularly skin-enriching. |
| Oleic Acid | An emulsifying liquid that can rescue separated creams. |
| Petroleum Jelly | A pale yellow translucent mineral jelly insoluble in water. Used in lip salves. |
| Vinegar | Used in cosmetics to soften, cleanse and soothe the skin. |
| Vitamin Capsules | A convenient way of adding vitamins to skin creams. |
| Zinc Oxide | A white powder derived from zinc with mild antiseptic and astringent qualities. Usually available as an ointment. |
USEFUL EQUIPMENT FOR HERBAL COSMETICS
| Heatproof glassware or pottery cookware | Electric Blender/Grinder |
| Enamel double boiler | Juice Extractor |
| Wire or electric whisk | Glass dropper |
| Measuring spoons | Wooden spoons |
| Measuring jug | Glass rods |
| Small glass (1 oz (25 ml) measure) | Spatula |
| Small funnel | Pestle and mortar |
| Nylon sieve | Clean dark glass bottles and jars with airtight lids |
| Measuring scales | Labels and pens |