The proportions of the ingredients govern a cream's consistency and are easy to adjust. To make a cream firmer, add more beeswax; to make it softer, add more oil. Adding more water will make it lighter and fluffier but also makes the ingredients more prone to separation. The addition of herbs such as marsh mallow and houseleek, which contain an emollient mucilage (a sticky substance in the roots, stems or leaves), will tend to make a cream spongier. The incorporation of a few drops of essential oil will add fragrance and its other beneficial properties.
Always label and date products immediately, keeping a record of each recipe and its success. As perishable ingredients are involved, creams should be refrigerated.
CLEANSING CREAMS (see Herbal
Cosmetics Recipes)
These are more efficient than soap and water at removing heavy dirt and
make-up. Massage into the skin and then wipe off with cotton wool.
TONERS
These are important for tightening the pores and refreshing the skin.
MOISTURIZING CREAMS
After the skin has been cleansed and toned, it is ready for a protective
film of moisturizer to maintain the skin's natural moisture level.
NB Borax has been found to cause a reaction when applied to inflamed skin and can be omitted from any of the recipes.
PLANTS TO USE IN CREAMS AND LOTIONS
Many plants and herbs have beneficial cosmetic uses. Those listed here
are particularly effective in skin creams. Many of these herbs are also beneficial
in face packs, baths and hair treatments.
| Aloe Vera | The sap from the leaves is soothing and healing. |
| Avocado | An excellent skin food with high vitamin E and A content. |
| Borage | Good for dry, sensitive skins. |
| Calendula | A herb for rough or problem skin. |
| Chamomile | A gentle, soothing herb that also softens and whitens skin. |
| Comfrey | A healing and soothing herb that contains allantoin, a protein that speeds up cell renewal. Good for rough and damaged skin. |
| Cucumber | A cleansing agent and toner. Soothing and healing. |
| Dandelion | Contains a rich emollient useful in cleansing lotions for dry, sallow skins. |
| Elderflower | A good tonic for all skins. Reputed to soften skin and smooth wrinkles, fade freckles and soothe sunburn. |
| Essential Oils | These are excellent additions to creams and lotions |
| Fennel | Cleansing and soothing. Add crushed seeds to face packs. Purifies oily skin. |
| Houseleek | A healing, softening and soothing herb especially good for dry, sensitive skins. |
| Ivy | Relieves sunburn; helps to disperse trapped fluids and toxins in the fight against cellulite. |
| Lady's Mantle | A healing herb for soothing dry, sensitive skin; a good astringent for large pores. |
| Lavender | A gentle cleanser and tonic for all skin types |
| Lemon | An astringent that restores the skin's natural acidic balance. |
| Lime Tree Blossom | Softens the skin. Deep cleansing. |
| Lupin Seed | A cleanser and pore refiner for oily skin. |
| Marsh Mallow | A healing softener for dry skins, chapped hands and sunburn. |
| Nettle | A deep cleanser; very good for oily skin. |
| Orange Flower | An excellent skin tonic, said to help restore the skin's acid mantle. Also treats dry skin and broker capillaries and stimulates cell replacement. |
| Parsley | A conditioner for dry, sensitive and troubled skins. |
| Peppermint | An astringent, which clears the complexion |
| Rose | A soothing and gentle cleanser, which has a softening, effect on the skin. |
| Rosemary | An invigorating antiseptic, which boosts circulation and deep cleansing. |
| Sage | A cleansing, stimulating astringent, which tightens pores. |
| Thyme | A stimulating but gentle antiseptic |
| Violet | A gentle astringent. |
| Watercress | Expressed juice can help to clear blemishes |
| Witch Hazel | Soothing and astringent. |
| Yarrow | A healing and cleansing astringent. Good for oily skin. |
SENSITIVE SKIN
No cosmetics can claim to be non-allergenic because every ingredient holds
the possibility that someone might be allergic to it. One of the main benefits
of making your own cosmetics is that if you do have an allergic reaction,
you know what ingredients you have used and can soon find the culprit. Test
for a reaction by placing a spot of any ingredient on the gauze of a piece
of sticking plaster and attaching this to your inner arm between the wrist
and elbow. Leave in place for 24 hours, by which time any reaction you may
have will show.
Some essential oils can irritate sensitive skins, particularly on the face. Oils to watch out for are bay, bergamot, geranium, neroli, pennyroyal, peppermint, sage and spearmint.
For those with highly sensitive skins, the following can
also cause allergic reactions:
| Agrimony | Cucumber | Lanolin | Primrose |
| Almond Oil | Glycerine | Lime Blossom | Violet Leaves |
| Cocoa Butter | Henna | Lovage | |
| Cowslips | Ivy | Nettles |