GLYCERINE AND ROSEWATER CLEANSING CREAM (for dry and normal skins)
Most recipes for creams follow this procedure. Waxes are melted in one container while oils are warmed in another. All ingredients should be the same temperature when you mix them together or the mixture may curdle. You can substitute any suitable herbal infusion (link to infusing in Herbs Cosmetics - introduction) for the rosewater.
4 tbsp (60 ml) lanolin 
3
tbsp (45 ml) rosewater
2 fl oz (50 ml) almond oil 1
tsp (5 ml) zinc oxide ointment
1 tbsp (15 ml) glycerine 6
drops essential oil of rose
1/8 tsp (0.65 ml) borax NB:
Borax has been found to cause a reaction
when applied to inflamed
skin and can be
omitted from any of the
recipes.
1. Melt the lanolin and gently heat the almond oil and glycerine
together. Slowly pour the oil and
glycerine mixture into the lanolin, beating constantly.
2. Dissolve the borax in the warmed rosewater and add gradually
to the lanolin and oil
mixture, beating all the
time. Leave to cool.
3. When cool and creamy, beat in the zinc oxide and rose
oil. Spoon into prepared jars and
label.
ORANGE-FLOWER CLEANSING CREAM (for dry and normal skins)
Essential oil of neroli (the substance extracted from the orange flower) is used to stimulate the loss of old skin cells and their replacement with new ones)
1 fl oz (25 ml) soya oil 1
fl oz (25 ml) orange-flower water
1 fl oz (25 ml) almond oil 1/8
tsp (0.65 ml) borax
1 oz (25 g) cocoa butter 5
drops essential oil of neroli
1 tbsp (15 g) beeswax
1. Mix and warm the oils. Melt the cocoa butter and stir
it into the oils. Melt the beeswax then
beat it into the oil mixture,
a little at a time.
2. Warm the orange-flower water and dissolve the borax in
it. Beat this into the main mixture.
Leave to thicken and cool.
3. As the mixture starts to thicken, stir in the essential
oil. Once cool, spoon into prepared jars
and label.
LEMON CLEANSING CREAM (for oily skins)
Lemon has a reputation for clearing greasy skin and smoothing wrinkles, as well as having a mildly antiseptic quality.
1 tbsp (15 ml) beeswax 1
tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice, strained
1½ tbsp (22 ml) petroleum jelly 1/8
tsp (0.65 ml) borax
3 tbsp (45 ml) mineral oil 6
drops essential oil of lemon
1 tbsp (15 ml) witch hazel
1. Melt the beeswax and petroleum jelly together over a
low heat. Warm the mineral oil, then gradually
add it to the wax mixture, beating for 3 - 5 minutes.
2. Add the witch hazel to the lemon juice. Warm gently then
stir in the borax until dissolved.
Slowly add this to the
wax mixture, beating steadily until it is creamy and cool/
3. Once cool, stir in the lemon oil. Spoon into clean jars and label.
ROSEWATER TONER (for dry skins)
The soothing properties of rose make this a good tonic for dry, sensitive and mature skins.
Just over ¼ pint (160 ml) rosewater Just over ¼
pint (160 ml) witch hazel
6 drops glycerine
1. Blend all the ingredients in a bottle and shake well before use.
FENNEL CLEANSING MILK (for oily skins)
½ cup (125 ml) buttermilk 2
tbsp (30 ml) fennel seed, crushed
1. Gently heat the milk and seed together in a double boiler for 30 minutes.
2. Leave to stand for a further 2 hours. Strain, bottle, refrigerate and use within 1 week.
SAGE ASTRINGENT (for oily skins)
4 tbsp (60 ml) dried sage 3
tbsp (45 ml) witch hazel
4 tbsp (60 ml) ethyl alcohol or vodka 10
drops glycerine
¼ tsp (1.25 ml) borax
1. Macerate the sage in the alcohol for 2 weeks and then strain.
2. Dissolve the borax in the witch hazel. Stir into the
alcohol. Mix in the glycerine and decant
into a bottle with a tight-fitting
lid. Shake before use.
LIGHT ROSE MOISTURE CREAM (for all skin types)
1 tsp (5 ml) beeswax ¼
tsp (1.25 ml) borax
1 tsp (5 ml) lanolin 3
tbsp (45 ml) rosewater, warmed
1 tbsp (15 ml) almond oil 6
drops essential oil or rose, or rose geranium
½ tsp (2.5 ml) wheat germ oil a
few drops of red food colouring if desired
1. Melt the beeswax and lanolin together, stirring constantly.
2. Warm the oils gently and gradually beat them into the
waxes. Dissolve the borax in the
rosewater and slowly add
to the oil and wax mixture, beating constantly until cool. Stir in
the rose oil as the mixture
begins to thicken.
3. Spoon into jars and label.
AVOCADO AND NETTLE MOISTURISER
1 tsp (5 ml) beeswax 1/8
tsp (0.65 ml) borax
2 tsp (10 ml) emulsifying wax 2
tbsp (30 ml) strong nettle infusion (link), warm
8 tsp (40 ml) hazelnut oil4
drops cedarwood essential oil
4 tsp (20 ml) avocado oil
1. Melt the waxes together. Warm the oils and gradually beat them into the waxes.
2. Dissolve the borax in the warm infusion. Slowly beat this into the first mixture.
3. Allow to cool then mix in the essential oil. Spoon into jars and label.
IVY CELLULITE CREAM
Some doctors and scientists dispute the concept of cellulite; many people look at their skin and think otherwise. Whatever the outcome of this argument, the fatty "orange peel" deposits on the thighs and buttocks can benefit from extra attention. Massage into areas of cellulite.
1. Melt the waxes in a double boiler. Warm the oils and then stir them in well.
2. Beat in the ivy decoction and allow the mixture to cool
before stirring in each of the
essential oils.
3. Spoon into jars and label.
COMFREY AND CALENDULA CREAM (nourishing cream for all skin types)
Especially good for rough, dry skin as these herbs are nourishing and healing. This also makes an excellent hand cream for sore, chapped hands. Comfrey contains a substance that helps cell renewal.
1. Melt the beeswax. Melt the lanolin and cocoa butter and
gradually stir them into the
beeswax.
2. Warm the calendula oil and glycerine and slowly stir into the first mixture.
3. Dissolve the borax in the warm comfrey infusion and then
add this to the main mixture,
stirring well. Continue
stirring until thick and cool, then mix in the essential oil.
4. Spoon into jars and label.
Barrier cream
FACE PACKS
DEEP PORE CLEANSING MASK
This recipe is based on an expensive face pack offered by a famous salon - so treat yourself!
1 tbsp (5 ml) beeswax Optional
Additions
1 tbsp (15 ml) lanolin
2 fl oz (50 ml) rosewater 1
tsp (5 ml) Irish moss or pounded quince or
1 tbsp (15 ml) fuller's earth flax
seed.
1. Melt the wax and lanolin together over a gentle heat, stirring continuously.
2. Remove from the heat and add the rosewater, stirring until it has cooled.
3. Mix in the fuller's earth (an optional additions), stirring
until you have achieved a smooth
paste.
To make a particularly healing barrier cream, follow the recipe for Comfrey and Calendula Nourishing Cream, and add 1 tbsp warmed liquid paraffin to the wax mixture before adding the comfrey infusion. The recipe here is much stronger.
HEAVY-DUTY BARRIER CREAM
4 tbsp (60 ml) petroleum jelly 2 handfuls fresh elderflowers.
1. Gently melt the petroleum jelly then add the elderflowers.
2. Leave to macerate for 45 minutes, reheating the jelly each time it solidifies.
3. Warm to a liquid and strain through a sieve into a screw-top jar. Cool and then seal.
HAND MASK
Once a week treat your hands to this mask to whiten and soften the skin. Apply to the hands for 20 minutes, preferably just before going to bed. Wash off, then apply a rich moisturizing cream (and wear cotton gloves while you sleep). Wash off the cream the following morning.
FEET
HERBAL FOOT BATHS
The traditional foot bath is one of the most therapeutic treatments.
To refresh tired feet, choose from bay, lavender, sage, sweet marjoram or thyme.
Place a large handful of fresh or ¼ cup of dried herb and 1 tbsp (15 ml) sea salt in a bowl of hot water. For convenience, these can be loose in the water.
To make a warming foot bath, add to the water 1 tbsp (15 ml) bruised black mustard seed.
To soothe itchy feet, add 4 tbsp (60 ml) cider vinegar to your foot bath.
To deodorize feet, soak them in a strong decoction of sage or lovage.
COLD FEET
Add 1tsp (5 ml) cayenne pepper to talcum powder or fuller's earth and sprinkle on your feet to get a quick warming sensation.
HAIR
HAIR TREATMENTS
Dry hair and any hair lacking lustre will benefit from a warm oil treatment before a shampoo.
Make a herbal oil using one of the herbs above and a polyunsaturated vegetable oil such as peach kernel, almond or sunflower. Alternatively, add 6 drops of essential oil to 2 tbsp (30 ml) of almond oil or any vegetable oil. Warm the oil, pour a small amount into your palm and rub your hands together. Massage well into the scalp and along the hair strands. Repeat as necessary. Cover the head with foil and a plastic shower cap and wrap in a hot towel (wrung out in hot water), replacing the towel when it cools. Leave on for 20 minutes, then wash off with a mild shampoo.
A QUICK HERBAL SHAMPOO
Pour one application of a mild baby shampoo into a cup and add 2 tbsp (30 ml) of a strong decoction of your selected herb, or 4 drops of essential oil. Mix together and use in the normal manner.
SOAPBARK SHAMPOO
Good for greasy hair. Simmer 2 tbsp (30 ml) soapbark chips (available from many health shops) in 1 pint (570 ml) water for 30 minutes.
ROSEWATER PICK-UP
This is an excellent way to clean and revive your hair between shampoos. Orange-flower water can be used instead, or lavender water for greasy hair.
You will need a number of 4 in (10 cm) squares of muslin or gauze dipped in rosewater. Force the muslin over a natural bristle brush and stroke through the hair in sections, removing dirt as your brush. Repeat with fresh muslin squares until the cloth picks up no more dirt. This treatment also gives a lovely fragrance to their hair.
DRY SHAMPOO
This is a quick way of revitalizing hair. Mix together 2 tbsp (30 ml) powdered orris root and 2 tbsp (30 ml) powdered arrowroot. Part the hair in narrow, regular bands and sprinkle the mixture along each row. Leave for 10 minutes to absorb any grease, then brush hair vigorously.
EYES
EYEBRIGHT EYE BATH
Boil 2 tbsp (30 ml) fresh plant or 2 tsp (10 ml) of dried herb in 2 cups (450 ml) water for 20 minutes. Cool, strain and use immediately in an eye bath.
AGRIMONY EYE BATH
This herb is second to eyebright in its fame for adding lustre to eyes. Boil a handful of fresh tops in a pint (570 ml) of water for 20 minutes. Cool, strain and use immediately.
EYE COMPRESSES
Make 2 cups of chamomile or rosehip tea, using 2 tea bags, and brew for 3 minutes. Remove the bags and cool. Place the tea bags over your eyes for 15 minutes, put your feet up and rest. This can also be done with black tea bags and will refresh tired eyes.
EYE GELS
Lotions or gels for the delicate, thin skin around eye must be light so that the application does not drag or pull it. The ingredients should treat only the surface of the skins. Rich penetrating oils can contribute to a puffy appearance around the eyes.
EYEBRIGHT OR ELDERFLOWER GEL
Dissolve a strong decoction of eyebright or elderflower water in a gelatine (as manufacturer's instructions) for a soothing eye gel.
APRICOT AND LEMON LIP BALM
A delicious, protective and healing gloss, especially good for chapped lips.
1 tsp (5 ml) beeswax 1 tsp (5 ml) calendula oil
1 tsp (5 ml) apricot kernel oil A few drops of essential oil or lemon or orange.
1. Melt the beeswax. Add the apricot and calendula oils, stirring constantly.
2. Remove from the heat while stirring, and when partly
cooled add the essential oil. Store in
a small pot.
MINT AND ROSEMARY MOUTHWASH
Both herbs sweeten the breath and rosemary has antiseptic properties. If you wish to make up larger quantities, add 1 tsp (5 ml) tincture of myrrh for its preservative properties.
1 pint (570 ml) distilled or mineral water 1 tsp (5 ml)
rosemary leaves
1 tsp (5 ml) fresh mint leaves 1 tsp (5 ml) aniseed
1. Boil the water and infuse the mint, rosemary and aniseed for 20 minutes.
2. When cool, strain and use as a gargle.